Sunday, March 23, 2008

Thursday/Friday- Akha Tribe

Well you know how we slept...

We awoke to a huge traditional breakfast- yup consisting of RICE, Vegetables, scrambled eggs, and pork soup. Our host would of got up 1-2 hours before the meal to prepare it. We ate at 8:00 am, and enjoyed our tea from our new Bamboo mugs. Then it was time to climb again, we went up to the view point- notice we said UP. On the way up Jack and Jamie cut down a bamboo tree with a machete and carried it up to the top so we could use it as our cooking implement. Another steep hill to a picnic spot marked by a bamboo straw hut with a deck ( that we ate our lunch off of).There was pipe sticking out of the hill with a constant stream of water flowing from it.

Once there our guide started to prepare our meal with us, he cut down 4 banana leafs to use with the Bamboo. He made the bamboo into a rice cooker, an egg cooker, tea pot,serving dishes and tea cups! Multi uses out of one Tree!! He also cooked meat on a stick that looked like intestine- when asked what we were eating all we could gather was that it "was pig insides" - One was liver but we could not figure out the other tube shaped meat- heart, aorta,intestines- who knows! While we were waiting for everything to cook- 2 hours- we walked the hillside, our guide found a snake skin that was at least 4 feet long- again Terry got over her snake phobia and touched it -

He served our lunch from the bamboo cooking vessels to banana leaf plates- how tropical - even more so considering the heat - at least 36-38 degrees in the sun! We encouraged Jack to eat early so we could leave the heat a little early- so we started our trek down the hill- even that is difficult when the incline is so steep. Back at the village we gathered our belongings- but before we left Jamie purchased one of the two machete knives and cases our host had made and used for the last 10 years. Jamie paid 400 baht ( 12.00 Can) for both knife and holder , he had no way to carry it, so our host and his wife sat on the floor and braided a new belt out of a wood like strand for Jamie to wear it. He looks officially jungle ready.

Now it was time to trek again, this time 5 km across 7 hills to the Akha tribe village. A more level walk but very narrow path along the sides of steep hills. Along the way, Jak cut us some bamboo walking sticks which proved helpful. Once arriving in the new village the feel was amazingly different. This time there were a few more modern looking homes under construction. The children here ran freely and approached us curious and excited especially when they saw the stickers Jamie was carrying and starting distributing. Pretty soon every local child heard we were in town and what we were giving. We were introduced to our host families next, separated this time into 2 groups. Our experiences therefore differed from host to host. We stayed in bamboo huts that were barren of anything likely just used for sleeping guests. The girls had wasp central, it wasn't an hour before Terry got stung on the end of her nose! They were literally hanging off the light on the ceiling, hovering everywhere, crawling around us during supper, sitting on the floor. Norrie got caught squishing one under the mat. Meals were interesting. The wife served us rice scooped up with her hand!! Appetizing. Especially since there aren't a lot of sinks or soap around..... Here again we had no hot water and had only squat toilets. We are getting good at that! Again no toilet paper, and any of our own we used had to be hauled out of the village when we left!!

We were again treated to their traditional fire dance. Dressed us in full costume which consisted of a heavy and elaborate headdress, lots of jewellery and beads, and black skirts, and colorful embroidered jackets and leggings. Just what we were looking for at 36 degrees! While we were waiting (remember Thai time) for it to start, Terry taught the kids ring-around -the rosy with the children. Lots of laughing over the falling down part.

Unlike the Lahus they sang a chant with no drums or instruments. You could feel the emotion of their celebration in their sincerity and seriousness. Obviously a very spiritual experience for them, and us.
From this center of town we spotted the fires in the hills glowing against the horizon. The air by now has become very smoky from crop burning. Something the foreign agencies are trying to discourage and teach better practices.


FRIDAY
Sleep here again was limited, thanks to the pigs, roosters and early rising villagers (5 am). Our host, the town chief, did his morning announcements over the loud speaker. We people watched until our truck came to pick us up to return us to Mirror Foundation. Suddenly Mirror feels like luxury, like coming home.

We unpacked, showered then joined into the English camp. This is the day we got to break out the hockey sticks!! I don't know who was more excited, the foreign volunteers or the kids. They caught on FAST and loved it. Even the camp manager ( a 30 ish yr old woman)couldn't resist joining in. They were thrilled when they found out they get to keep the sticks. Picture 20 people playing hockey in 36 degrees. Hot and sweaty but fun!! I think that was a first for them.

After lunch, where we gorged on the fruit (getting tired of rice???), and had our daily treat from the ice cream truck, we planned our lesson for Monday so we could relax on the weekend. At 5 pm 14 of us piled into a half ton truck (only in Thailand) and went into Chiang Rai which is customary for Friday nights at Mirror. We enjoyed a Thai barbecue/buffet. Very interesting process, you choose your ingredients and barbecue them at your table ( in 36 degrees remember). It was fun and a nice change to choose our own tastes. Including ice cream!!! From here we were taken to the famous night bazaar. After shopping the crowded streets we enjoyed yet another massage. This time of our feet. A simply decadent hour. Nothing quite like it, and only about 250 bhat, $7.50 cndn. We headed to stay at Ben Guest House to our glorious air conditioned rooms. Had some beer from 7-11 on our deck and yacked til 1 am. These rooms almost felt like a REAL hotel after our recent lodgings. They actually provided toilet paper, and the shower had a curtain separating it from the bathroom, AND hot water.
Points of interest:
- Akha tribe is mostly farmers and work on steep hills to grow their produce. Tough people.
-They have no written language. Yet economically they are stronger than most tribes around
-Women and even babies wear headdresses
-It costs students who wan to learn English in Chiang Rai one day/week $25 a month. This does incredible things for them in terms of increasing their opportunities in life.

No comments: